Chenin Blanc is South Africa’s most planted wine grape, a vestige of the days of distilling and fortified wine production. A top-notch French grape from France’s Loire Valley, Chenin was planted in the Cape winelands in the 1600s. Much of the Chenin has been ripped out, but wonderful old vineyards remain, like the 40- to 70-year-old vines that distinguish this wine. The vineyard is also home to wild rooibos shrubs which are endangered, and so if they spring up in your steep, rocky vineyard, you let them be! Made by rising star winemaker Donovan Rall, Chenin and a little highly-prized white Grenache is lazily wild-fermented in old barrels and steel tanks. The aromas are earthy, with the distinct herbal note of fynbos (a fragrant, scrubby ground cover that smells like thyme and sagebrush). The dry palate is quite unctuous, with apple, peach and honey flavours, all framed by lip-smacking acidity. There are just a few hundred cases for the world, and this exalted Chenin can be found on some of London’s finest by-the-glass lists.