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Julia Kemper
Dão Branco

Julia Kemper - Dão Branco - 750ml bottle

Julia Kemper
Dão Branco

Justly famous for potent Port and age-mellowed Tawnies, Portugal best-kept secret is her wonderful dry table wines. Many come from the Douro Valley where ports are made, but this white hails from Dão, a mountainous area with moderate climate and high quality schist and granite soils, and a long tradition...
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Justly famous for potent Port and age-mellowed Tawnies, Portugal best-kept secret is her wonderful dry table wines. Many come from the Douro Valley where ports are made, but this white hails from Dão, a mountainous area with moderate climate and high quality schist and granite soils, and a long tradition of grape growing. Under the authoritarian regime of António Salazar, Dão growers were forced to give their grapes to co-operatives for wine-making, causing the industry to stagnate. Not so now, and many of the best wines come from venerable family estates like this one. Julia Kemper is a vivacious lawyer who’s energetically championed her fine wines in export markets. Encruzado and Malvasia combine artfully in this branco, which tastes of jazzy citrus, almonds, and baked pears. There is a gentle warmth of oak in the background of each sip, adding to the soft and round mouthfeel. The finish is teasingly long and serious. I tasted earlier vintages of this wine with Julia when I was last in Dão, and ageing is a given. Drink a glass just to reflect on the many facets of this wine, or pair with a rich pork stew.

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